The joy of snorkelling feature.
Take the Tube | Splash! | Early Snorkels | There she blows!
Take the Tube

All you need is a mask, a tube and a pair of fins. Find a suitable piece of coastline, preferably somewhere warm, and you or your children can enjoy colourful sightseeing free of all the paraphernalia that scuba divers must contend with (and of course enjoy!). Launching our special summer feature on snorkelling, the BSAC's Snorkelling Adviser, Mike Smith, takes a realistic look at equipment needs.
(Picture by Lawson Wood.)

Mask, fins, snorkel - nothing to it, is there? Well, there is slightly more to choosing equipment that is right for you.
The mask is the most important item. If it fits correctly you will enjoy the sport; if it is ill-fitting and leaks, the experience will be miserable.
Silicon masks are more expensive than plastic or rubber, but more comfortable and durable and less likely to cause a reaction in sensitive skin. Check that lenses are made of tempered or toughened glass.
A few years ago, if you needed optical correction twin-lens masks were indicated, though these can rub against the bridge of prominent noses and cause soreness. Now individual correction lenses can be added to the mask, so a single faceplate can be used just as well.
Beginners should buy a low-volume mask, without extra side or bottom windows. They are easier to clear of water, and cause less resistance when moving your head.
The skirt should fit comfortably, and a second skirt shaped into the mask makes an effective double seal. The strap is usually of the same material as the body, with a split section at the back to hold it securely in place at the crown of the head. It should be easy to adjust and secure.
Don't over-tighten it, as this will break the seal and is the main cause of leaks. If a mask leaves a mark on the face when removed, it is too tight.
Ensure that the frame is sturdy, and that any metal fittings are stainless steel.
The mask should sit below the hairline and comfortably on the upper lip, without constricting the nose. The simple test of an all-round seal is to fit the mask and breathe in through the nose - the mask should stick firmly to the face.
Clearing the tube: only necessary if your snorkel doesn't have a purge valve to allow water to drain from the bottom. Snorkel tubes are usually made of plastic and the mouthpiece of plastic, rubber, or silicon - again the material of choice. The design of the mouthpiece should ensure an adequate airway but an oversized one will cause discomfort.
Consider the size of the mouth and what is a comfortable gap for the teeth. Undue pressure on the bite block on which the teeth rest causes strain at the lower jaw joint.
All snorkels are of similar dimensions to allow ease of both breathing and clearing. Some have a purge valve to allow water to drain from the bottom of the tube, but their seals can leak if grit fouls the outlet. Various methods have been devised to attach snorkel to mask-strap, and whether you use a sleeve, clip or quick-release attachment, I would recommend the practice.
For propulsion, shoe or pool fins are ideal for beginners. Being smaller and offering less surface-resistance, they are less tiring on untrained leg muscles.
The foot fits into a slipper-like pocket, and for growing children shoe fins can be bought in slightly larger sizes, taking up the slack with ordinary or neoprene socks, or by using a fin retainer.
Shoe fins have rubber foot sockets and plastic blades, as do the bigger, heavier and more robust open-heel fins, designed to accept a dry or wet boot and be used in open water.
Some believe that snorkellers should wear lifejackets with independent means of inflation, but these are beyond the budget of many younger snorkellers.
For surface buoyancy between brief breath-holds, one of the simplest buoyancy aids I have found is made by the US company Forte and supplied in the UK by Tandem Trading. It has a screw-down lock to retain inflation. For instructors, Tandem also offers a marker buoy and an inflatable ring that provides a support station for the snorkeller. Surrounded by grab handles, it has a secure anchoring point and a covered central compartment for small items like flares or a waterproof radio.
Finally, a small blade can be handy for cutting snagging line in water, but there is no need to snorkel with a claymore strapped to your leg - you will rarely need it!
Appeared in DIVER - July 1998.