"JUMP, JUMP, JUMP!" With the urgency in our skipper's voice echoing in our ears, we threw ourselves into the surf. This was it, no turning back. I held my camera tightly in both hands, bit down on my mouthpiece, kicked my wee fins as hard as I could and prayed.
I was determined to get to the other side of the pinnacle and down the sheer wall, whatever the conditions, and so were my buddies. This was our first dive here.
The sea was calm enough but there was a slight swell, and every 20 or 30 seconds this would explode over the massive pinnacle better known as Bo Fascadale.
One of Scotland's most awesome dives, it isn't for the faint-hearted. The sea was holding on to our braces, pulling us back, then propelling us forward again. It seemed we would never reach the other side. My buddies were pulling themselves through the kelp but, clutching my camera, all I could do was kick like mad.
When we eventually made it to the other side of the pinnacle, the sense of relief was palpable. Free-falling down the sheer wall, covered in dead men's fingers, we hit a ledge at 32m to be greeted by friendly cuckoo wrasse. On the rock face itself, squat lobsters and velvet crabs jostled for position. Way above, a small shoal of pollack were silhouetted by the sun.
It had taken us two and a half hours to reach Bo Fascadale from our base in Lochaline but it had been worth every minute.

DROP OFF THE PIER
The Lochaline Dive Centre at Morven in Argyll is a family-run business. Over 12 years its facilities have continually been improved and we were happy with the accommodation. Many club groups come with their own boats, because from here you are that much closer to the classic Sound of Mull sites, as well as those around Coll and Tiree.
For clubs and individuals without a boat, the centre can arrange diving with local operators, including the mv Brendan and Alchemy Diving which, though based near Oban, is happy to collect divers from Lochaline.
The centre is also home to Scotland's Nautical Archaeology Society training scheme and runs many training courses during the summer.
It is staggering how many excellent dives there are in the area, including a few possibilities from shore, my favourite being Lochaline Pier. This drops sheer to depths well beyond sport-diving limits and is covered in sponges, sea squirts and peacock worms. Drop straight down the wall off the end of the pier or, if you are less brave, start in the shallow lagoon of the beach and work round to the pier wall.
Other good shore dives include Fuinary Rocks, where a series of ledges and boulders shelter a wide variety of life, from long-clawed squat lobsters to lobsters and cuckoo wrasse. Extremely fit divers might attempt to dive the wreck of the Shuna from shore. Located 200m off the Morven shoreline, just up from Rubha Aird Seisg, it's a fair old swim and not really advisable.

WELL STRIPPED
The Shuna, which sank in 1913, was one of the last big wrecks found in the Sound of Mull. Don't expect to find anything but coal; the old steamship has been well stripped, as have all the best-known wrecks in the area.
The Hispania is my favourite UK wreck dive and a magnificent scenic dive with ladders, stairways and railings covered in bright orange and mustard-coloured plumose anemones. It sank after running on to rocks at Sgeir Mor during a winter storm in 1954 and lies upright in 30m, with a fair list to starboard, around three-quarters of the way to Tobermory from Lochaline. A steady current sweeps over the wreck, so dive it on slacks.
Heading the other way from Lochaline, another great wreck dive, the Thesis, sits between 20 and 30m on the bottom, relatively intact. Lots of light penetrates it as most of the hull plates have fallen away, offering plentiful fishlife and photo-opportunities.
The wreck of the Rondo ended up almost vertical directly beneath the lighthouse on Dearg Sgeir, after dragging her anchor during a fierce winter storm in 1935. She rests between 5-50m of water, covered in plumose anemones, peacock worms and home to a large number of wrasse and pollack.
There are other great wrecks outside the Sound of Mull but still within easy reach of Lochaline. The Tapti lies off the island of Coll, another January storm casualty, this time in 1951. It lies scattered on sand between 15-23m and with good visibility and light and spectacular colours makes a beautiful wreck dive.
At the other end of Coll lies the Nevada II, which ran aground on the west coast in thick fog in 1942, carrying army vehicles, foodstuffs, cigarettes, shoes and Brylcreem for the troops in West Africa. The ship temporarily lodged on rocks at Rubha Mor, allowing much of the cargo to be salvaged. Locals thought Christmas had come early that year!
The wreck ended up on sand in 16m, the most impressive parts being the huge boilers and stern steering gear.

SNAPPED AND SMASHED
On the north-west coast of Mull lies another shallow wreck, the Aurania, one of three large liners torpedoed by German U-boats in the first two months of 1918. They had been requisitioned to ferry troops from the USA to Britain.
Torpedoed by UB-67 off Donegal, the Aurania was being towed to the Clyde for repair when the line snapped. She drifted on to rocks at Caliach Point to be smashed to pieces.
The wreck is well scattered across the bottom in 15-20m, and again it is the boilers that stand out.
If you're not particularly into wrecks, there are plenty of scenic dives to enjoy around Lochaline. Just east of the pier is Ardtournish Point, where you can dive along a sheer drop-off, normally at slack water. Or try Pennygown Quarry to the west of Fishnish Bay, where a slope to 20m gives way to a stunning cliff face to 70m.
Calve Island, down from Tobermory, has one of Scotland's best cliff faces, with chimneys, crevices and overhangs covered in sponges, sea-squirts and cup corals and crawling with spider crabs and squat lobsters. Little and Big Stirk are two rock dives with good scallop beds, while at the mouth of the Sound of Mull is Ardmore Point, a great little dive with atmospheric cliffs and overhangs reaching down to 20m.
For sheltered sites, Loch Sunart has the Risga pinnacle, which starts at 3m and descends to 60m. Encrusted in sponges, hydroids and bryozoans, it's a happy hunting ground for nudibranch-fanciers. Also in the loch is Auliston Point, where the terrain slopes to 12m then sheer to 36m, with a good overhang.
So many excellent dives, whether wreck, scenic, drift or a combination. All you need is time and a group of keen divers.

The coastline of Coll

a moon jellyfish


sailing is another popular pursuit


squat lobsters


on the wreck of the Rondo


exploring the Hispania


after-dive haunt, the Mishnish pub

GETTING THERE Take the A82 towards Fort William and at Coran take a short ferry ride over Loch Linnhe to link with A861. At Strontian, turn left on to the A884 to get to Lochaline. DIVING DETAILS: Lochaline Dive Centre (tel/fax 01967 421627, freespace.virgin.net/ lochaline.divecentre/home.htm) has good launching facilities and trailer parking, nitrox and 300 bar fills. The centre can arrange licences to dive on the two designated historic shipwrecks in the Sound of Mull, the Dartmouth and the Swan. Lochaline Boat Charters for mv Brendan (07967419025, www.lochaline-boats.co.uk) or Alchemy Diving (01631 720 337, www.alchemydiving.com). ACCOMMODATION:The centre takes up to 24 in twin-bunk rooms with own toilet and hand basin. Hot showers, recently refurbished kitchen, dining room/lounge. There are plans to add self-catering facilities for families or small groups. Self-catering houses are also available on the Ardtornish Estate, 01967421 288, www.ardtornish.co.uk. FOR NON-DIVERS: Hill-walking, fishing, Tobermory, Mishnish pub. BEST TIME TO GO:Summer, but diving goes on all year round. WATER TEMPERATURE:6-16°C. DIVING SUITABLE FOR: All divers. COST:Lochaline Dive Centre accommodation £10.75 per night or £75 per week Sat-Sat. Lochaline Boat Charters £7.50 per dive, £15 for three. Alchemy Divers £35 a day including fills.

PROS: Wide range of wreck and reef dives. Possibility of historic wreck diving. Good visibility. Diving possibilities for everyone from trainees to advanced. Attractive scenery.

CONS: Diving suited for individuals but best for club groups with own boat. As with all northern destinations, both diving and holidays are weather-dependant.