Red Sea
secrets
not to mention the mysteries, mistakes, misnomers and miscellany of the world's most popular dive destination
­ all is revealed here


What's in a name?

Colour confusion: Why the Red Sea is so called is a bit of a mystery. Some say it is due to the light of the setting sun reflecting off the red mountains along its shore and on to the surface of the water. Others say it should have been called the "Reed Sea" because of the abundant reed beds near Suez before they built the canal. Some claim the name refers to the "red tide" of a plankton bloom ­ Trichodesmium erythraeum ­ that turns the water brown when it dies. The Ancient Egyptians knew the Red Sea as the Wadge Wir ­ the Great Green ­ not very red at all!

Habili
Habili means "un-born" ­ a term used in southern Egypt for coral reefs that do not yet come up near the surface.
Going places: The southern Red Sea is bordered by Yemen and Eritrea, the mid-section by Sudan and Saudi Arabia, and the north by Egypt and Saudi Arabia. The language commonly spoken in each country, apart from Eritrea, is Arabic. It's useful to know the meaning of place names. The main ones you will come across are Sha'ab (reef) and Marsa (bay). Ergs are solitary out-crops of coral, usually surrounded by sand. A Dahrat is a name for a reef that breaks the surface and has a sandy covering ­ a coraline island such as Dahrat Abid in the Suarkin archipelago (Sudan). Many people think that Ras Mohammed means Mohammed's Head. In fact, Ras is the Arabic word for headland, so it's Mohammed's Headland. Despite endless numbers of underwater visitors, it still rates as one of the best dive sites in the world.

She's a star: The crew of Poseidon's Quest, captained by Jan Ellingsen, gave Pfeiffer Reef in the Sudan its name when they first dived it in 1994 ­ because they thought it was so beautiful!

Old wife's tale: The wreck of the Sarah H at Shag Rock got its name from a joke. When Schlomo Cohen was researching his updated guide to the Red Sea, he asked David Hilall, skipper of Sea Surveyor, for the name of the wreck they had just dived. David H didn't know, so he jokingly called it the Sarah H (his wife is called Sarah). It is actually the ss Kingston.

Red herring: Many people visit the Sinai or dive in the Straits of Tiran in the belief that they are diving in the Red Sea, but this area is more accurately described as the Gulf of Aqaba.


WRECK SPECK

True colours: Outside the port of Aqaba lie the remains of the mv Cedar Pride. Abandoned by her owners and their insurance company after a disastrous fire in the engine room, her hulk was left to rot in Jordan's only port. Under the auspices of King Hussein, she was towed out and sunk as a marine habitat and now, covered in soft corals, has become one of the region's most colourful wrecks.

Don't believe all you read: One of the wrecks seen stranded high and dry on the reefs in the Straits of Tiran was formerly guarded by a Turkish sailor. Because the vessel's owner forgot about him and ceased to pay him, he existed by selling parts of the vessel for scrap. An enterprising Brit took photographs of him armed with his rifle and sold the story to newspapers that he was a wanted terrorist, holed up and in hiding! That Turkish sailor now works as a dive guide in Dahab.
Utter bullion: Despite what dive guides may tell you, the wreck of the Dunraven, at Beacon Rock in the area of Sha'ab Mahmud, is not, as was formerly thought, the wreck of the bullion ship used by Lawrence of Arabia. Vessels with the same name included those used by the British on secret missions during World War One. This vessel sank in 1876. The engine from the Dunraven is in London's Science Museum.


A lotta bottle: The ss Carnatic is also known as the "Bottle Wreck" because she was carrying a cargo of mineral water in Victorian teardrop-shaped bottles. The Bottle Wreck was discovered by Adrian O'Neill in 1986, when he was captain of the Lady Jenny V. Much of the brasswork of this Victorian P&O steam sailing ship, including many port-holes and gimbal-mounted lamps, are at present held privately in a house near Oxford.

Italian job: A natural harbour within the Eritrean Dahlak Islands is rumoured to contain the wrecks of at least two Italian warships bombed by the RAF. In fact, they are the remains of two Italian passenger vessels, the Nazario Sauro and the Urania, which were scuttled when the British took Abyssinia. Later, the harbour became the headquarters and base of the Eritrean People's Liberation Front. Few have dived them and no one has yet been given permission. The crew and passengers of the Lady Jenny V were arrested in 1991 for attempting to dive there without permission.

That's scrap: Contrary to popular belief, the Lady Jenny V, one-time doyenne of Red Sea liveaboard dive boats, did not sink. Allegedly built as Adolf Hitler's private Rhine river cruiser in 1936, she survived a long history of operations in the Red Sea. These include being stranded on her side on a reef top and, many years later during one of several adventurous trips to Djibouti, she narrowly escaped destruction when attacked by a missile-carrying helicopter. She was eventually sent for scrap at Suez.

ss Thistlegorm That sinking feeling: The rough sea conditions that can occur in the Gulf of Suez go some way to explaining why so many vessels have come to grief on the reefs of the Straits of Gubal. The mv Chrisoula K was once one of two wrecks with their bows protruding above the surface at Sha'ab Abu Nuhas. Wave action has made it slip back off the reef and now the wreck is hazardous to dive. The "Lentil Wreck" is in fact the remains of the mv Seastar, a 5000 ton Lebanese freighter that foundered in 1976. The mv Giannis D sank in 1983 and is broken in two with her bow section now some short distance from the stern.

Thistle down: The ss Thistlegorm, the wartime wreck re-discovered in 1992 and now famous among divers, was found complete with her cargo of war supplies. Contrary to rumour, she has no sister ship nearby. No other "Thistle" ships were used in the convoys for Operation Crusader. It is rumoured that another freighter was also sunk in the same attack on the wartime anchorage at Sha'ab Ali, but it has yet to be found. Jacques Cousteau, in his book The Living Sea, describes how he stumbled across the Thistlegorm while looking from his underwater observation station on the Calypso. At that time, in the early 1950s, the Thistlegorm's masts were still breaking the surface, so they might have given him something of a clue to its whereabouts!

Saladin's Castle
CONFLICTING POSITIONS
The castle (now completely renovated) at Coral Island was not built by the Crusaders but by Saladin in his defence against them. It represents the permitted limit of range for day boats operating out of Eilat in Israel. Tiran Island was given by Saudi Arabia to Egypt in 1966. This gave Egypt control of the Straits of Tiran, which in turn precipitated the Six Day War. The Sinai was the ancient Biblical land of Moses. It was later captured from the Egyptians by the Israelis during the Six Day War and held until handed back under the terms of the Camp David Agreement. The politics and bureaucracy of the countries abutting the Red Sea can be confusing. For example, the offshore reefs and islands of Egypt, such as the Brothers, Daedelus Reef and Rocky Island, have been closed for reasons of "security". We have been informed that subject to special conditions permission to visit those places can be obtained. However, this permission may not be recognised by the officers of the Egyptian Navy who patrol these offshore regions. One way or another, dive-boat captains take a risk if they visit these places.
IN THE ELEMENTS

Put the wind up: Divers often expect the Red Sea to provide perfect conditions for diving. They anticipate calm seas with crystal-clear water. Alas, the Red Sea is often subject to strong winds associated with the extreme air temperature changes of the deserts that surround it. This leads to rough sea conditions. On the other hand, periods without wind mean increased water temperatures that can lead to heavy plankton blooms and reduced visibility. There is little tidal movement in the Red Sea. The prevailing wind is from the north-east, which means that currents flow from that direction too. The best diving is usually found on the exposed north side of off-shore reefs, but boat skippers prefer to moor up in the lee. Normally, the Sinai shore of the Gulf of Aqaba enjoys calm water because it is a leeward shore. The Gulf of Suez experiences some very rough conditions.

In hot water? The northern part of the Red Sea is not tropical. The Tropic of Cancer passes through the Red Sea close to Egypt's border with Sudan. Water temperatures in the northern part can be quite cool, especially in the winter. Membrane drysuits are becoming very popular with the dive guides who work there! Water temperatures can vary from a sweltering 34 C in the south during the summer to a chilly 18 C in the north in winter. Do not be beguiled by retailers who want to sell you a thin wetsuit if you are going to Sharm el Sheikh between November and May.

Salt of the earth: The Red Sea has salinity of more than four per cent. Apart from the Dead Sea, which is really a lake, it is the most saline of all seas. Divers find they are more buoyant here than usual ­ and need to use more weight.


ANIMAL MAGIC

Napoleon wrasse
Bump on the head: Napoleon wrasse start life as males but mature into females. When a vacancy occurs on the reef, one female will change again, into a super-male with the distinctive bump head. Bump-headed parrotfish are found in the Red Sea only south of the Tropic of Cancer. They move across the coral grazing like a herd of bison.
Heavy traffic: Jacques Cousteau reported an encounter on the Thistlegorm with a Napoleon wrasse the size of a truck. The "truckfish" episode is featured in a contemporary edition of National Geographic. Although Napoleon wrasse grow to impressive dimensions (up to 200kg), no other diver or fisherman has reported seeing one as big as a truck!

Buttering up: The distinctive yellow-masked butterflyfish pairs for life. It is a species indigenous to the Red Sea. If you see a moorish idol in the Red Sea, it is probably a bannerfish, otherwise known as antenna butterfly fish! Moorish idols are an Indo-Pacific species rarely seen, if at all, further north than Sudan.

What suckers: Remoras are fish that attach themselves to other fish by means of a sucker positioned on top of their head. They hitch a ride this way, and are opportunistic feeders. They do no harm to their host and often a larger fish will return to pick up its remoras should they become separated. They are often known as shark-suckers.

Dolphin friendly: At Muzeina, a village close to Nuweiba, a young deaf-mute Bedouin man has befriended a wild female spotted dolphin. He regularly snorkels with her and engages in a great deal of tactile activity. For a small fee, visitors are allowed to dive with her too.

Clown Fish
Who's laughing? Clownfish, those little yellow fish splashed with a touch of blue and white, and otherwise known as anemonefish, live in symbiosis with the anemone in which they make their home. They become immune to the anemone's sting, that protects them from predators. In return, they clean the anemone of unwanted matter.
Bloomin' plankton: Plankton is the staple diet of filter feeders such as manta rays. Raised levels of plankton often increase the diver's chances of a close encounter with one of these gentle giants of the sea. Other plankton-eaters include whale sharks ­ the biggest fish in existence. They can often be encountered during the hottest periods of the year in the Gulf of Aqaba near Eilat.

Soft Coral Coral betting: The most southerly true coral structures are Fawn and Saunders Reefs near the border between Eritrea and Sudan. Further south, coral grows on sandy areas or the volcanic sub-strate of the Yemeni islands. The broccoli-like soft corals (dendonephyta and lytophiton), often bright red (below), or yellow, are a characteristic of the Red Sea. Unlike most other corals, they have no algae living in symbiosis with them, so they must absorb nutrients that pass on the current. They do not take part in theformation of the reef because they have no calcarean skeleton. Gorgonian corals (right), or sea fans proliferate only where there is a good flow of water. Echinoderms like the crinoid featherstar or basketstar also feed on nutrients that pass by. However, they are able to move about and choose their spot at night or hide during daylight hours.


OUT OF EGYPT

The hole story: The Blue Hole at Dahab is so called because divers can see through a hole in the reef to the blue light of open water beyond. However, because the top of the arch of the Blue Hole is 65m deep, it is not a dive recommended to air-breathing divers.

Tropical trees: Close to Dahab, on the Sinai's Gulf of Aqaba coast, are some of the most northerly mangrove swamps to be found anywhere in the world.

mv Colona
The mv Colona IV is still in the Red Sea but no longer in use as a liveaboard dive boat. She lies in around 70m outside Hurghada after hitting a reef during a severe storm. No one was hurt in the accident. Local technical divers now use her for trimix courses.

Old and new: Although Sharm el Sheikh was the original resort, nearby Na'ama Bay, which had only one proper hotel in 1984, is today a burgeoning tourist centre, overshadowing its neighbour in importance.

Reef resort: Hurghada is a fishing port on the Egyptian mainland that has also developed into a resort for divers. There are no shore dives here. All the reefs need to be accessed by boat and the nearby reefs of the Giftun Islands provide most of the dive sites. Rob Palmer, the famous cave and technical diver, was tragically lost without trace during what should have been an ordinary leisure dive at the Giftun Islands in 1997.

Panoramic view: Safaga is a less well-developed port about 60km south of Hurghada. Although a lot quieter than some Red Sea resorts, it makes a good base for diving offshore areas such as the spectacular Panorama Reef. The mv Salem Express became the worst maritime tragedy in history when this modern roll-on roll-off ferry struck a reef at night on the approach to Safaga. More than 1600 people lost their lives and there are mixed feelings among locals as to whether the wreck should be dived.

Fraternal confusion: The Brothers are two rocky off-shore islands owned by Egypt, while the Seven Brothers are 1300 miles to the south off the coast of Djbouti.

South end: The little harbour at Marsa Alam, further south, is being used for embarking passengers who wish to visit the Elphinstone, probably Egypt's most beautiful and burgeoning inshore reef, and, further out to sea, Daedelus Reef, which is famous for encounters with thresher sharks. Rocky Island is a triangular-shaped piece of land that marks the most southerly point of Egyptian territory in the Red Sea. Zabargad, another island nearby, sits astride the pre-1996 border with Sudan and usually marks the limit of operations for vessels bearing Egyptian flags.

When in Rome: At the time of Cleopatra, and when the Roman Empire controlled Egypt, there was an important port at Beronice (pronounced: beron-iké), near Ras Banas. This was the departure point for vessels making the perilous voyage to India.


RED IN TOOTH AND CLAW

ss Dunraven Shark remarks: The Shark Observatory at Ras Mohammed is a viewpoint on a high promontory from where, years ago, visitors could view large shoals of milkfish with their dorsal fins breaking the surface. Milkfish were often known in those days as the "tourists' sharks". The so-called grey reef shark of the Red Sea is different to that found in the Indian Ocean. It is often argued that the Red Sea species is in fact the short-nosed black-tip shark. The world's press has recently reported an attack by a great white shark in the Red Sea. Although the shark attack on a visiting diver who was surface swimming among a school of dolphin actually happened, we can assure readers that there are no great white sharks in the Red Sea. However, we do advise against swimming with dolphins in blue-water conditions, as schools are invariably shadowed by predatory sharks, such as tiger sharks, looking for ill or distressed animals.

Hands off: Cone shells present a far greater threat to the well-being of divers. They can shoot a highly poisonous dart through slots in their shell into the unwary hand of anyone who attempts to pick one up. Dive with your eyes ­ not your hands!

Lion Fish
Another fish armed with poisonous spines is the lionfish (above). This flamboyant and exotic-looking animal is quite a common sight in the Red Sea and there appear to be several different sub-species. They cruise lazily but can burst into action when hunting their normal prey ­ glassfish and sweepers. Glassfish (top, on the ss Dunraven), and sweepers congregate in large groups usually in caves and recesses of wrecks or other shaded areas. Watch out for lionfish stalking nearby!
Trigger happy: The oceanic triggerfish is a species found only in the tropical Red Sea. Great shoals of these strange-looking metallic-coloured fish cruise the blue water off the submarine walls of Sudanese reefs. The titan triggerfish is found around all the reefs of the Red Sea. It has a pugnacious appearance that suits its character. This fish will protect its territory aggressively, making sudden and unprovoked attacks on any other fish, even those much larger than itself. These attacks come in the form of a sudden rush and a clinging bite. Titan triggerfish are armed with powerful jaws and teeth suitable for chewing bony corals ­ divers should steer clear of them!

Lure away: The Salem Express has become the adopted home of a number of giant frogfish. These masters of disguise lead sedentary lives but are voracious hunters. Dangling a specially designed lure from above their head, they have the ability to swallow any unfortunate fish, even those almost as big as themselves, that are tempted to investigate.

What's your poison? Stonefish and scorpionfish hunt in the same way as frogfish. Stonefish have the ability to camouflage themselves so well that they can look exactly like stones! Both pack a virulent poison in their dorsal spines, so you must not touch anything, even what appears to be a rock, while diving. A treatment for a victim of this poison is to apply a great deal of heat by soaking the area stung in near-to-boiling water. The heat breaks down the toxins.

Eel diablo: Moray eels may look aggressive but that is because they need to gulp water continuously to force it through their gills. They have exceedingly poor eyesight and hunt their prey by smell. The small yellow-mouth moray is believed to be indigenous to the northern part of the Red Sea. Mory Eel


Red Sea Map DOWN SOUTH

Sand blast: Some say that the further south you go, the better the diving gets. Be advised of the existence of the great Farasan Bank of Saudi Arabia and north Yemen and the Dahlak Bank of Eritrea ­ vast areas of sandy sea-bed which can make the diving a little dull!

Pelagic profusion: Quoin Rock, part of Yemen, sits adjacent to the main Red Sea shipping lanes. It marks a spectacular dive site with huge numbers of visiting pelagics.


SUDAN IMPACT

Sharks and elephants: In the Sudan, Sangeneb Reef, an oval-shaped coral atoll marked by a spectacular lighthouse, is a favourite dive site for shark-watchers, (above). The remains of the wreck of the White Elephant, said to have been operated by a notorious Israeli smuggler, lie in its lagoon. A little further south is the reef of Sha'ab Rumi, site of Cousteau's Conshelf 2 experiment. Remains of some of the structures can still be seen.

What a blast: The ss Umbria was a civilian liner impounded by the Royal Navy on suspicion of carrying munitions and scuttled by her crew the day Italy declared war. Formerly called the Bahia Blanca, the massive ship lies on her side in 30m on Wingate Reef and still carries 12,000 tons of bombs. If the wreck were to blow up, the resulting tidal wave is calculated to destroy nearby Port Sudan.

Walled off: Further south still, the coral islands of the Suarkin archipelago offer the most spectacular wall diving in the world. Alas, these islands still seem to be politically out of reach of regular liveaboard dive vessels and sites like Dahrat Abid seem now denied to us.

Porcelain Wreck China crisis: Levanzo may be an island in the Mediterranean but it is also the name of a freighter, the ss Levanzo, wrecked at Elba Reef in the northern waters of Sudan. The so-called "Porcelain Wreck"(below), in the Hanish Islands of the Yemen did not carry porcelain, despite the wishful thinking of Alex Double, who discovered it in 1989. When some pristine examples of its cargo were taken to Sotheby's for valuation, they were revealed to be cheap mass-produced 19th-century china.


GREEN IN RED

In 1996, the Hurghada Environmental Protection and Conservation Agency, with funding from US Aid, installed 250 mooring buoys at 40 dive sites. Further funding in 1998 will allow the HEPCA Southern Area Mooring Buoy Installation Project to install another 250 buoys in the area between Safaga and Marsa Alam. Mooring buoys help prevent reef damage caused by indiscriminate anchoring. Four rangers from the Egyptian Environmental Affairs Authority enforce laws forbidding damage to the reefs. Shore diving is now prohibited within the Eilat Marine Park ­ often known as the Japanese Gardens ­ and night diving is prohibited in the Ras Mohammed National Marine Park.

Appeared in DIVER - November 1998

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